The Aeolian Islands are seven volcanoes, two still active, off the north coast of Sicily. We anchored beside the active Stromboli but didn’t see any lava, in spite of getting up early to see the glow, but the sunrise was magical. Sicily (at least the east coast that we saw) was surprising in three ways: the coast is very populated, most buildings need repair, and it has lots of ancient history. Our first stop, Riposto, is near Mount Etna, another active volcano that we wanted to visit. However, Etna stayed in the clouds and Riposto was soon left behind since it was probably the most run-down and depressing place we have seen. Siracusa (Syracuse), on the other hand, was great, with its rich history and architecture from many eras, although it says it has been declining in power and influence since 212 BC. We made a side trip to Noto, one of the most delightful towns in Sicily (per Siracusa lit), which was totally destroyed by the 1693 earthquake, and rebuilt in baroque style.